Valentino's Fall/Winter 2024 collection, unveiled earlier this year, turns out to be the last for designer Pierpaolo Piccoli, who spent twenty-five years at the iconic fashion house, sixteen of them at the helm as creative director. Piccoli largely shaped the modern face of the brand after he was personally named heir to the throne by the retired Valentino Garavani in 2008 (side by side with Marie-Grazia Curie, with whom he shared the position until she moved to Dior in 2016).
Valentino Fw 24
In connection with the latest changes in the Valentino house that were announced at the end of March, Piccoli's collection seems like an emotional hint of what was to come. Typical of his style, it was marked by a single shade - from the first to the last 63rd look. But unlike Fall-Winter 2022, when the shade of choice was Valentino Pink PP, a deep pink created in collaboration with the Pantone Color Institute, the palette for the new season was at the other end of the spectrum. Black. And more black. Mini and maxi dresses, capes, coats, pants and shirts were all dripping in black. Instead of colors, Piccoli chooses textures and cuts to be put at the center of the spotlight. Rather than gloomy, however, the collection is ethereal, modernistic and captivatingly elegant – just like all of the Italian designer's work. "A legacy of love, dreams, beauty and humanity, I carry with me today and forever," says Piccoli in an emotional statement on his departure, which also applies to the aura of the Fall-Winter 2024 collection.
Valentino FW 24
Preloved Shopping: vintage blazer with frill Moschino, perforated leather shoes Valentino, pleated blouse Valentino Roma, vintage sunglasses Valentino;
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Words: Galina Drumeva
Photos: Courtesy of the brand
Collages: CODE MODA